On the Feast of St James, Anna M sailed up the Ría de Vigo with a glorious NNW breeze, and we dropped anchor in the Ensenada de Moaña just above Vigo on the north side of the Ría. It had been an epic three weeks, since we had landed in Nazaré unsure of whether we would even be able to extricate Anna M from where she had been so long stranded while her hull was virtually rebuilt. I would never have managed without the help of our Cristíona and her friend Romain from Lyon. Happily for me, Cristíona took on the management of money and she is very good at firmly charming people into cooperating!
In the end everything fell into place remarkably well, Ian from South Africa helping with the rigging, Tole from Siberia with last minute woodwork like installing the cooker, and of course Alec who moved the Anna M on his zaney trailer, hoisted up the masts and finally got the hydraulic steering working. We had several strokes of what is commonly called luck, especially Victor who drives the travel lift going on his holidays after he had lifted us into the water, so we were able to stay on the waiting pontoon for a few days while we got the rig up, the steering sorted, stores in and many smaller jobs done. Eventually, on the afternoon of July 23rd, we sailed off the pontoon, and squeezed out through the awkward harbour entrance with a bit of help from a fisherman whom I had primed with a bottle of Irish whiskey.
| Leaving Nazaré |
With mixed feelngs of gratitude and relief, we soon left Nazaré behind. The west wind which had made it difficult to get out of the harbour was perfect for sailing up the coast, keeping out well due north with the North Star to steer by. As forecast, the wind veered more NW for the second night, and we ended up raising the Portuguese coast north of Porto sooner than I had wanted, so we had to take a few tacks after Viana do Castelo, before getting a bit free of the wind for a splendid sail up the Ría de Vigo.
At Moaña we were welcomed by a friendly marinero from the marina, who put us on a mooring of theirs in the sheltered corner just to the north of it. We just had time to get everything straightened out in time to get home for the clan gathering in Clare,- a handy enough 9 hour journey from boat to house. This effected a remarkable change in climate, the temperature falling from 30 degrees + to 20 - . Actually I'm not sure which I prefer, they both have advantages and disadvantages, and I suppose one is lucky who can enjoy the luxury of hopping from one to the other now and again.
However once you're trying to work in anything above the mid 30s, it's definitely not fun, and it is very delicious to come back to our cool, green garden. With a national emergency in Spain as we left because of wild fires, I occasionally find time to dip into the debates around our response to climate change etc. Why it should be so difficult to adopt a simple, centrist position (like my own), remains a bit of a mystery. I suppose it comes down to money!
There may well be plenty of oil and gas still to be extracted, but human appetite for energy appears insatiable and there is after all a finite amount of them. When they are gone, they are gone indeed. If we were to depend on them entirely, the tensions involved in access to them, which are very bad already, would only get worse. Altogether they seem irretrievably involved with graft, power hunger, not to mention plain ordinary filth, and that's before we get to their role in climate change.
I happened to tune into an interview with an American professor called Scott (never discovered his full name) on Triggernometry who seemed very reasonable, but then he came up with the statement that 'there is no such thing as renewable energy', which seemed to me foolish. He was making the point that batteries, electric motors etc also require a lot of stuff from the ground, but it seems to me that they are hardly limited resources in the way hydro-carbons are. We shall get better at recycling materials for solar panels and so on, but there is no recycling fossil fuel.
He also seemed assured that we have the right to go on endlessly demanding more and more energy, while his mind didn't stretch to the possibility of a civilisational collapse. It seems to me that we should always keep such a possibility in mind, along with the inevitability of our own personal demise and that of the entire world, but all this need not depress nor terrify us. For one thing, it should teach us to value and enjoy each and every present moment with its many gifts, such as the beautiful great shearwaters that winged their way past us the other day. We all need to slow down instead of everlastingly hurrying nowhere, and in the case of sailing boats, the presence of a diesel engine is destructive in many ways.
Our recent passage without auxiliary power was a case in point. No smelly and expensive oil required, no vibration, smell or pollution, more seamanship required and hence satisfaction derived. I do not however want to do without technology, I just think we should be much more serious about developing the intermediate stuff, which is not to deny that a diesel engine can be a very useful bit of kit. Let those who want to use them do so, but let us also show that the use of them could be more enjoyable if there was not the same pressure attached, and that the alternatives could be much more fun.
So I remain very interested in the idea of a company to research and develop the alternatives for sailing and fishing craft, but as for the Anna M, while in my view she would provide an ideal platform for such work, I have brought her as far as I can with my own resources. I shall go on working at her in little ways, but she still requires serious investment if she is to be put to serious use again. With my eightieth birthday coming up, I have to put her on the market, but how delighted I shall be to help with realising the dream if others come out of the woodwork to carry it onward!


